http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=370402&page=5
The early t4's and T25's do like to rust if not looked after.
Kolla om gummibung lossnat i hjulhus, ger rost annars! Se mer här:
“For an easy life; my advice would be to go with a 2.5 tdi for longevity and reliability, the others are good but have their share of problems if you don't know what your looking for. The upside of the 1.9td and 2.4d engines are they are easy to fix and service compared with the tdi lump.” - JIMMYJAMES
“I spent a while thinking before buying my t4, mainly about runnning cost in th future. Being a mechanic labour isn't a problem but I've got a 2.5tdi which I can only just afford parts like dmf, turbos, injectors compared to the 1.9td which if it wasn't for the cruise control on my tdi I'd change to a 1.9td any day. As for a t5 there great but every thing gets more expensive to maintain same with all new veichles. People say you have a lot of little things breaking with a t4, that's just age give it 5 years the t5 will have the same problems.” - Haynes-4
Automat ska man definitivt skippa på en T4. Problem.. Sett hur många exempel som helst på detta!
Verkar som man ska köpa en som är efter 1996 ansiktslyftning, förbättrad lack och rostmässigt.
http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=7687
Hittade följande på nätet för några år sedan, men missade att ta referens, hör av er om ni känner igen så jag kan ge rätt erkännande.
Hittade följande på nätet för några år sedan, men missade att ta referens, hör av er om ni känner igen så jag kan ge rätt erkännande.
"Jag har någorlunda erfarenhet av diverse skåpbilar, och för de pengarna tycker jag att det enda vettiga är en Transporter 2,5 TDi. Tex. långa modellen med 5 sittplatser. Har själv precis en sådan just nu och är väldigt nöjd, finns plats för både folk och bagage. Iveco daily, citroen jumper/peugeot boxer/fiat Ducato, ford transit och renault trafic är inga höjdare att leva med, varken kvalitets- eller komfortmässigt. Mercedes sprinter är väl iaf lite bättre än ovan nämnda men också mycket dyrare. Folkan är robust och dessutom snål, jag mäter vid varje tankning och den har hittils dragit allt mellan 0,74 oxh 0,89. Dessutom skön att åka i, med skåpbilsmått mätt. Det enda som är bra att ha i minnet är att aldrig någonsin köpa en VW T4 med automat. Den lådan är bland det absolut sämsta VW någonsin byggt. Har haft att göra med fyra olika T4:or med automat, och samtliga har rasat minst en gång :-)"
Honest Johns Used Car Review
Volkswagen T4 Caravelle (1994 - 2003)
Good: Stacks of room and a wide range of trim options. The TDI gives a good mix of cruising pace and economy.
Bad: Rust and paint defects. VR6 guzzles petrol. Early non-TDIs are an awful drive.
What's Good
VW's front engined Transporter in short and long wheelbase estate car format. Various trim options, such as Multivan with curtains and seats that convert to a bed. Bags of room inside. Useful 5 cylinder TDI diesel offering up to 35mpg and reasonable 80-90mph cruising. Quite nice to drive with TDI engine. Good view. You see hazards ahead over the roofs of normal passenger cars. 2.5TDI can be chipped to give higher performance. Also a VR6 version as well as 1.9 TDIs.
Much improved after 1996 facelift. Metallic paint is best. VWs generally had below average warranty repair costs in 2003 Warranty Direct Reliability index (index 76.83 v/s lowest 31.93). Link:- www.reliabilityindex.co.uk
What's Bad
Big. Built at van plant at Hanover to van standards, which is basically to run reilably to a high mileage in a short time. Paint and rustproffing not to car standards, though improved hugely after 1996 facelift.
Sold only by VW commercial vehicle dealers, so service reception isn't like a VW franchise.
VR6 is a heavy drinker.
Earlier non-TDI models were awful to drive.
TDI's timing belt drives water pump and, if water pump fails, so does belt. Injection distribution pump timing difficult and expensive to re-set when renewing timing belt.
What to Watch Out For
When buying used, look for rust and paint defects. Best engine is the 5 cylinder 2.5 TDI, but remember it needs frequent expensive timing belt and tensioner replacements, and a new timing belt driven waterpump every 80,000 miles.
Original Link
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/index.htm?md=737&
En bra köpguide för VW T4:
https://www.vwheritage.com/blog/2013/12/05/t4-buying-guide/
Ytterligare en bra:
http://www.vwcamperguide.com/html/vw_t4_buyers_guide.html
----------- ---------------
Re: Which is the best engine to go for?
the t4 1.9TD is not direct injection like a TDI (look on wikipedia for details of the difference.)
1.9TD offers you a computer free engine. It is cheaper to service and you can sort stuff out yourself reletivly easily if you fancy it. It can also run off veg oil.
2.5TDI offers more power. It is controlled by an ECU and has a bit more electronic wizardry. Its more expensive to service.
Manuel gives you better fuel effiecincy.
Autoboxes seem to not be good for high millage.
---- ----
VW T4
singlecrack
1.9= dog slow,rust around arches/windscreen
1.9td= pretty reliable.rust around arches/windscreen
2.4 na =dog slow , head problems ,fuel pump problems,brake servo pump problems,rust around arches /windscreen.
2.5tdi= Faster ,lots of engine sensor problems,turbo problems, gearbox problems.brake servo pump problems,fuel pump problems ,head problems.
and have rust around arches .
trickydisco - Member
saying that.. I bought a 2.0 petrol t4 off a guy from vwt4forum. It had 52k on the clock, 1 owner from new (he was a retied gas engineer doing 4k miles a year) and in very good condition. Cost me £90 to get the cambelt done (as opposed to £500 for a diesel) and the servicing is very cheap.. it hasn't let me down in 2 years of ownership
no turbo to go wrong. Essentially the same engine as the gti.
mikertroid - Member
Had T25, T4s and now a T5.
T4 great; avoid the 1.9, however. Look for rust on the welds on the A pillar.
My T5 is going strong after 5 years still. Nicer cabin. Had issues with door locks (fixed DIY) and CCM wiring needing TLC (quick solder under drivers seat).
My T25 was a shed!
"A facelift in 1996 introduced a longer, re-shaped nose to accommodate the optional VR6 lump. At that point ‘short noses’ were known as T4a, ‘long noses’ as T4b." Source: http://www.vwtmag.com/tech-guides/buying-a-t4-vw-transporter-1219
"Gearboxes are robust, but check for any that jump out of gear or have dodgy synchromesh, which could be a problem on high milers. Because the T4 has a hydraulic clutch, check for fluid leaks around the pedal box. And while you’re down there with the torch, check there are no cracks in the pedal box itself where the clutch master cylinder mounts as this is another T4 foible." - Source: http://www.vwtmag.com/tech-guides/buying-a-t4-vw-transporter-1219
"I have owned two T4s & yes they can rust around the windscreen. My first was where two panels are joined. Our current one has a very small bubble starting under the windscreen rubber.They can also rust after a careless windscreen replacement where the paintwork has been chipped. The vans in Europe can rust in the fuel filler flap & in the wheel arches but in OZ they are normally rust free.
The engine of choice would be the 2.5TDI, powerful but economical. Avoid anything with auto trans. You are right about the Syncro & I wouldn't buy one unless you have a need for 4WD." - jets , http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f136/t4-transporter-buying-tips-72290.html
Rust
"They rust in various places but the sliding door runner is very common and very annoying, check it out right at the front, the runner track wears at the steel and it rusts through and the door runner bearing drops through the hole when the door is shut.
Pain in the but to fix properly because you have to weld a patch in perfectly flush or the door runner will grind on it, and there isn't room to get in on top to smooth the repair out with a grinder unless you cut half the side of the van off for access. Take some rags and a torch and wipe all the grease out of the front end of the runner and check it, look from underneath also, give it a good poke." - cobblers , http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/135687
"Look out for the rear bumper mounts on the side of the van and also the sills but thats an obvious one check under the door step plastics aswell as mine is just a hole got to weld asap
Door seals are expensive so try to check for leaks." - nutter81 , http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/135687
"Look out for rot in the tops of the front chassis legs you cant see them from above very well but the MOT man can see them from underneath and check under a the plastic on the door steps." - chess , http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/135687
